Aquatell Backwashing Carbon Filter Assembly & Start Guide

These instructions will help you to get your Aquatell backwashing carbon filter assembled, installed, and treating your water.

Open the Boxes:

  • We recommend using a box cutter with a blade that is no longer than 1/4"
  • Cut the tape at the top of the box and open it up
  • With the box flaps open, find a corner of the box and run your box cutter down the corner. Since the media tank is round and the box is square, at the corners there is little chance that you can accidentally damage the tank with the blade of the box cutter.
  • Never cut the box open down the flat side as it is likely to damage the tank

All The Pieces:

In addition to the capped media tank, you should be able to find all of these parts and pieces:

  1. Upper Media Screen
  2. Bypass Valve
  3. Tube Stay
  4. Plumbing Connector Kit
  5. Plumbing Connector Kit
  6. 1g Silicone Packs

Installation Location

  • Your Aquatell Backwashing Filter is installed on the downstream side of your water meter or pressure tank
  • The filter must be protected from weather including rain and freezing temperatures

Control Valve Assembly & Installation

Position the treatment tank where you'd like the softener to be installed, and then remove the cap so it looks like this:

Connect the upper media screen to the bottom of the control valve. It inserts into a groove and then twists into place:

Use some of the silicone grease to lubricate the outer surface of the riser tube and the tank lip:

  • Lower the control valve with the attached upper media screen onto the tank making sure that you guide the riser tube into the bottom of the riser tube
  • Push the control valve down until the threads of the control valve can engage with the threads of the tank. Spin the control valve on until it stops, then give it an extra 1/8th turn. Because the control valve is o-ring sealed to the tank, it does not need to be tightened more than that:

Install the retainer rings (1) and o-rings (2) onto the plumbing connectors. Make sure the retainer rings are fully seated in the groove. Put some silicone lubricant on the o-rings:

Insert the plumbing connectors into the bypass valve and hand-tighten the black nuts until they are snug:

Attach the bypass valve with the attached connectors to the control valve:

Make sure the handles of the bypass valve are turned to the "bypass" position:

Drain Line Connection

Pull out the red clip that holds the drain line fitting in place and then pull out the drain line fitting. The photo below shows how to connect your drain line tubing. The best material is 1/2" rigid plastic (like PEX). Make sure the pipe is fully inserted into the fitting as you tighten the nut on:

Soft drain line material can also be used. The most common is 5/8" (Outside Diameter) clear vinyl tubing. You'll need to insert the Tube Stay (see below) into the end of any soft tube before inserting the end into the drain line fitting. The photo shows the tube stay half-inserted. Make sure you push it in fully before installing it in the drain line fitting.

Once your drain line has been connected to the drain line fitting, insert the fitting into the drain line port on the control valve, and re-insert the red clip. Make sure the clip is fully seated. The weight of the drain line must be supported properly by tacking it to a wall or other structure. If the full weight of the drain line is hanging from the control valve fitting, this can cause a leak.

When your Aquatell Backwashing Carbon system backwashes it will send a flow of water through this line. So the open end of the drain line needs to be discharged to a suitable drain location. Common drain locations are a floor drain, laundry tub, or sump pit. Be sure to secure the open end of the drain line so it cannot move. The drain line should be no longer than 20 feet. Make sure you abide by local plumbing bylaws.


Connect your household plumbing to the plumbing connectors that shipped with your Aquatell Backwashing Carbon system. When viewing the control valve from the front, untreated water enters from the right and treated water exits to the left. Arrows on the Clack control valve show the flow direction also.

For threaded connectors, it's advisable to use a small amount of Teflon tape to ensure a good seal to your plumbing material

For any of the Clack push-to-connect fittings, it's important that you cut your plumbing straight across and that you de-burr the cut end with emery cloth or light sand-paper. Lubricate the cut and de-burred end with a small amount of silicone lubricant. The plumbing is then pushed into the push-to-connect fitting. There is an internal o-ring so there will be some resistance. Make sure the plumbing fully seats into the fitting.

For Clack plastic push-to-connect fittings (such as those shown in the photo below) there is a collar that needs to be locked into place by turning it 1/4 turn once the pipe has been inserted:

Other Plumbing Considerations:

  • make sure the weight of the plumbing is supported or leaks may develop (for inlet/outlet plumbing and drain line)
  • if you use elbows or other hardware in the drain line, make sure they do not reduce the inside diameter of the drain line. PEX fittings that expand the tube diameter (such as those made by Wirsbo) or Push-Connect-Fittings (like Sharkbite) are ideal as they do not reduce the inner diameter and allow full flow
  • if you use soft material for the drain line be sure to avoid making tight turns that could collapse and block water flow
  • the flow to the drain is substantial so make sure the end of the drain line is well-secured

Power On & Programming

These instructions reference this manual.

STAGE ONE (OEM Setup, Page 14)

STEP 1SS: Press SET + UP buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds and

release. Then press SET + UP buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds and release.

STEP 2SS: Press either the UP or DOWN button until you see "P8" on the screen, then press SET to enter this value.

STEP 3SS: Dashes will appear on the screen, press SET once to advance to next step

STEP 4SS: Use UP or DOWN buttons to scroll through values until "99" appears on the screen, then press SET to enter this value

STEP 5SS: Use UP or DOWN buttons to scroll to "60" on the screen, then press SET HOUR once to enter this value

​STEP 6SS: Press SET to exit this programming menu

STAGE TWO (Installer Settings, Page 16)

STEP 1ID: Press SET + UP buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds and release

​STEP 2ID: Use UP or DOWN buttons to set the hour of regeneration. Moving past 12 will activate the "PM" setting. Once hour is selected, press SET to enter this value.

STEP 3ID: Use the UP or DOWN buttons to set the number of days between backwashes to 5, then press SET

STAGE THREE (Set the Clock, Page 18)

​STEP 1U: Press SET

STEP 2U: Use the UP or DOWN arrow to set the time to the closest hour of the day. Scrolling past 12 will activate the "PM" setting. Press SET to enter the value.

Turning On The Water

  • Ensure that no water-using outlets are running in your home
  • Open the inlet side of the bypass valve halfway - you will hear water flowing into the tank
  • When water stops flowing, close the inlet side of the bypass
  • Allow the media to soak overnight - this is a very important step
  • The next morning ensure that no water is flowing in your home
  • Open the inlet and outlet side of the bypass valve
  • Immediately force the system into backwash by pressing and holding the UP and DOWN buttons at the same time until the motor engages, then relase
  • the backwash is comprised of two steps and takes about 20 minutes in total
  • During the first backwash check all of your plumbing connections:
    • check the control valve/tank seal
    • check the drain line connection on the control valve
    • check the inlet/outlet plumbing connections
  • Also check where your drain line discharges to ensure it can receive the volume of water

The system is now fully ready to treat your water and will backwash as needed on its own!

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